You’ve been using your chainsaw for a little while now, and you probably think you know all there is to it. Well, you’re wrong! Sorry to be so blunt, but I need to mention some important things to you in this post.

So let’s get straight into it!

 

Be careful of the bar to engine power ratio

When you purchase a chainsaw, the bar and engine power are kept to a similar ratio. For example, if you get a chainsaw with a 12-inch bar, the chainsaw engine isn’t going to be very powerful.

That small chainsaw was probably designed for pruning. But let’s say you’re thinking about using that same chainsaw to fell a tree; you might be thinking you can install a bigger bar and be good to go. 

This won’t work because even though the bigger bar you’ve installed is designed for big tasks, the chainsaw engine probably isn’t. So keep this in mind when considering a change in bar size.

Make sure you file the depth gauge along with the teeth

There are multiple features on a chain: the teeth/blades, and another is the depth gauge. 

When you sharpen the teeth, they’ll shrink and eventually be smaller than the depth gauge. This will prevent your chain from cutting because it’s not able to touch wood. 

So make sure you’re filing down the depth gauge. I would recommend getting a Stihl chain sharpener; this will sharpen the teeth evenly.

Clean the flywheel

Right now, your chainsaw may be in top-notch condition; it runs like a dream. However, it will eventually get clogged and start to overheat if you’re not cleaning it properly. 

There’s one place that people tend to forget about when doing a clean, and that’s the flywheel. Open the chainsaw side, and you’ll see a gap; inside, there is the flywheel. 

If you don’t feel comfortable opening up your chainsaw that much, you don’t have to; make sure you’re getting a brush inside of that gap and giving it a good clean.

Unclog the oil holes

As the chain rotates around the bar at rapid speeds, it will cause friction, and this friction will cause heat, which will damage your chainsaw. 

To prevent this, you oil your chainsaw, and it allows the components to work smoothly. Modern chainsaws come with an automatic oiler; you need to fill it with bar oil. 

Eventually, the hole responsible will get clogged. To unclog it, you need to open the bar, and you’ll find a hole(s). It would be best if you unclogged them. 

To check if your chain is oiling, run it whilst pressing the throttle, pointing at a piece of cardboard. If the cardboard is wet, it’s oiling properly; if not, there’s something wrong.

Conclusion

So those were the things you may not be considered when using your chainsaw. 

Make sure you’re using your chainsaw for tasks it’s been designed to handle, make sure it’s being sharpened properly, clean it, and unclog the oil holes.

Ever have a log that wouldn’t fit in the chimney? Assuming this is the case, you realize that cutting logs the right length is significant.

Cutting your firewood evenly and consistently with a well-maintained chainsaw can help you stack wood more neatly and ensure your wood always fits. However, tape measures and marking sticks leave room for error and require a fair amount of time and effort.

A firewood marker makes estimating fast, simple, and precise.

A can of upside-down (inverted) surveyor’s paint (not included) fits into the chamber, and then you wheel the log marker down the log.

The marker will measure as it goes, spraying a dot of paint at each marking. The standard wheel measures 16″ increments and will yield you an estimated 75 cords of wood.

Good-fitting wood burns longer and cleaner, so wheels are available in other sizes, too. To fit different stove and fireplace sizes, 6″, 12″, 14″, 18″ or 24″ wheels are options.

Why Use a Log Marker? 

Firewood markers give a few advantages:

• Precise estimation
• Efficient and durable
• Accurate estimate forestalls inordinate cutting.
• It makes for more secure, more adjusted stacks
• Fits firebox better for more, cleaner consuming
• Works on cold logs
• Saves time for different exercises

Suggested Paint for Log Markers 

It’s critical to use the transformed assessor’s paint that works with a sideways spout movement. The cans that require discouraging the spout (in a descending design) won’t work with most log markers, such as the Mingo Firewood Marker.

The paint can be bought all things considered tool shops. After testing, it was discovered that rich-hued paints would fit all the more rashly in general. Red, white, and blue paints are suggested as the best entertainers.

Log Marker Use and Care 

Before use, make sure to adhere to any directions on the paint can. Shake it up for one moment after the ball clatters, and afterward remove the plastic top from the can using a fitting device.

To introduce the paint can, you should flip around your log marker to see that the spout of the can gets inserted through the opening in the trigger. Not insertings the spout entirely through the gap in the trigger will keep it from working.

When the paint can is inserted accurately, you can turn the firewood marker straight up and start. Be sure that, when you’re done, you away from the spout of the paint can go before capacity.

When operating, loosen the wing nut until the wheel rotates smoothly, but not to the point where the wheel is wobbly. When you’re finished, be sure to reverse-rotate the wheel by hand until the cam hits the trigger and then tightens the wing nut to prevent accidental spraying.

Changing Wheel Sizes 

To replace the standard 16″ wheel with another size, you’ll need to initially slacken the wing nut, remove the screw, and afterward remove the 16″ wheel.

Choose another wheel size (sold separately), such as the 14″ wheel, and install it using the proper holes. If installing a 14″ wheel, you’ll use the holes marked “14 inches” to distance the nozzle to the log remains the same. It also helps keep the proper cam to trigger position. No tools are necessary for changing wheel sizes.

Hopefully, this article has helped you understand a lot about the subject.

Unlike a basic hand-operated saw that features only a handle and a serrated blade, a good chainsaw needs more regular care. Taking good care of your chainsaw will maintain performance, help it perform more safely, and extend the life of your saw.

Following daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance routines will ensure you’re not missing anything important.

Everyday Maintenance Tips 

• Check the Trigger

Check your throttle trigger before each use to ensure it’s working easily. On the off chance that the throttle trigger is sticking or the motor isn’t coming back to rest after you discharge the trigger, take the saw into a service center for inspection.

• Monitor Safety Features

For example, any safety features, the throttle trigger lockout, and the chain brake should be checked. Keep the chain brake clean, and check the chain catcher for harm. If it’s harmed, replace it right away.

• Keep a Clean Filter

Check your saw’s air channel before each use. On the off chance that it’s messy, clear it off and allow it to dry before reinserting it into the saw. If it’s damaged or filthy, replace it with a new filter.

• Rotate the Bar

For more even wear on the chainsaw bar, turn the bar before each use. Clean out the bar groove to prevent excessive wear, and inspect the lubrication hole to ensure it’s not clogged with anything. Not getting enough lubrication will cause more friction and damage to the bar and the chain.

• Check the Sprocket/Tighten and Sharpen the Chain

Inspect the drive sprocket for wear. On the off chance that it’s recognizably worn, replace it. Sharpen your chain, Inspect its condition, and replace it whenever harmed. Check the chain pressure to ensure it’s not very free, and fix it if essential. While sharpening, refer to your owner’s manual to determine what size file to use for your chain.

• Ruin Your Starter

Search for harm or unreasonable wear to the starter and the starter line. On the off chance that at all harmed, have it overhauled. Clean the air admission spaces situated on the starter lodging. Test the crisis stop change to guarantee it works appropriately. The motor should stop right away.

• Fix Any Loose Parts

With the vibration made by the motor, a few screws, nuts, or fasteners may shake free. Assess your saw for free parts before each use and fix them.

Week By Week Maintenance Tips 

• Check Anti-Vibration Wear and Tear

Please look at the anti-vibration elements to make sure they’re not getting too soft or torn.

• Lube the Clutch

Lubricate the clutch drum bearings. This will prolong the life and performance of your clutch.

• Inspect the Bar

Remove your saw’s chain and run your finger around the edge of the chainsaw bar to feel for burrs. If you locate any, file them until they’re gone.

• Check Your Plugs

Remove and clean your spark plug, and ensure that the spark plug gap is still 0.5 mm. If necessary, replace the spark plug with a new one.

• Study Your Starter

Clean the flywheel fins, and make sure the recoil spring is functioning properly.

• Wipe Your Fins

Better you clean off the cooling fins that are located on the cylinder to ensure proper heat distribution and cooling.

• Clean the Carburetor

Always ensure to clean your carburetor and your airbox. Check the screen in your saw’s muffler. Clean it off or replace it as necessary.

Month To Month Maintenance Tips 

• Check the Chain Brake Band

Remove the plastic cover to the bar and chain, and inspect the chain brake band. This is the thin metal band that wraps in a circle around your clutch drum. Ensure there are no cracks or visible weak spots on the band, especially where it attaches to the mechanisms near the front of the saw. If the brake band breaks, you’ll need to replace it.

• Check the Clutch

While you, despite everything, have the spread off, assess the grasp. Examine for wear on the focal point of the grasp, the grip drum, and the spring.

• Look at Your Fuel Filter

Check your fuel channel, and clean it or replace it as essential. Wipe off the outside of your carburetor.

• Overview Your Wiring

Check the entirety of your wiring, links, fittings, and whatever else you can access to ensure everything’s associated appropriately.

• Clean Your Tanks

Presently is additionally a decent ideal opportunity to clean within your fuel tank. Old fuel can leave a gunky buildup that is awful for your motor. You can likewise pause for a minute to clean your oil tank if you’d like.

Hopefully, this article has helped you understand a lot about the subject.

This post is about – How to Cut and Remove a Tree Stump with a Chainsaw in your yard rapidly and safely. It can be an arduous and grueling task to remove a tree stump. But it is also one task that absolutely must be done if you want your yard to look its best.

There is nothing uglier than the remaining parts of a tree trunk, that giant stump gazing you directly in the face, where a beautiful tree used to be. So if you’ve been thinking about using a chainsaw for a tree stump removal, we’ve got some simple step by step instructions for you.

What are those Tree Stumps doing there in the First Place?

Anyone who owns an older house knows how bad trees can get after a while. Sure, they’re small and easy to manage in the beginning, but after a couple of years or so, they begin to overtake the entire yard. At times they even start to become a source of danger.

What’s more, in the long run, they can even reason extreme harm to your home (or even relatives) on the off chance that you don’t deal with the issue before it is past the point of no return.

That is why people end up cutting down the branches that hang over the house. But if the tree itself is what’s dangerous, many folks opt to cut the entire tree down. Hence the new stumps.

It requires a great deal of work, and thus, as a rule, people don’t remove the entire tree. Instead, just chopping to the ground, or much more terrible, a couple of feet above it. It results in the tree’s continual growth and the ugly tree stump sitting in your yard.

Step by step instructions to Remove a Tree Stump Without a Grinder

This article will give you the means to remove a tree stump without a grinder and save you the $100-$200 fees to have somebody come out and remove the stump for you.

Tools Needed To Remove Tree Stumps

There are several ways to clear those stumps, yet just one way gets them out rapidly. Assuming that you have, at the very least, read the title of our post, you should already know what technique I’m talking about: The chainsaw. You should have on hand a few other things before starting the process of removing a tree stump with your chainsaw.

Tools you will require:

• Chainsaw
• Safety gear
• Shovel
• Digging bars (these act as levers to remove the stump)
• An Ax – To cut hard to reach roots.

How To Remove a Stump with a Chainsaw

Stage 1: Put On Your Personal Protective Equipment

It is a straightforward advance, yet it is by a long shot the most significant one; regardless of whether you are a chainsaw veteran, the risks in working them never disappear. The hazards of chainsaws are plentiful; chains can break and hit the user or anybody around them.

Did you realize that generally, 40% of the chainsaw mishaps happen in the leg zone? Another 35% occur in the hands and wrists. It joined with how all the chainsaw wounds together come out to $350 million every year should disclose to all of you have to think about how significant safety is when using a chainsaw.

Stage 2: Cut the Stump as Low to the ground as could reasonably be expected

Cutting the stump low enough to the ground shouldn’t be too difficult of a task to accomplish. Make sure you get all of the branches off also. The lower to the ground, you can get the stump, the better. Now you can remove the tree roots from the rest of the stump.

In the subsequent stage, you will need to pry it out of the ground. The less measure of tree staying to work with, the simpler it will remove the stump.

When cutting the stump to the ground, make a point to apply the perfect weight measure with the chainsaw. Apply too little weight, and you’ll never get past the tree and wind up ruining the blade. Also, applying too much pressure can bind the chainsaw blade or kick-back, possibly injuring the injury. Keep firm pressure, and move slowly.

Stage 3: Shovel Dirt Away From the Stump

This step is meant to expose the roots of the tree stump. It’s a long and labor-intensive process (just like every other step in stump removal), but it is essential.

While doing this, you will need all of the roots uncovered; this will most likely expect you to dig a few feet from the tree and as much as 2-feet under the ground, which is why this is such a labor-intensive step. I’d probably dedicate an entire day for stage three. Unless you’ve got extra hands helping you out.

Stage 4: Cut the Roots

The fourth step is the reason the third step is so significant. Cutting the roots isn’t a troublesome assignment – particularly if you have a decent chainsaw close by. In any case, on the off chance that you don’t have the roots appropriately exposed, then you’re going to have a difficult time separating the roots from the tree.

You should be wary when cutting through the roots, you’re working right next to the dirt, and if you mistakenly dig the blade of your chainsaw in the dirt, you’ll ruin it with a quickness.

Be sure you get them all of the dirt away from the roots before you start cutting through them.

Stage 5: Pry the Stump Loose

Another highly labor-intensive step in the stump removal process is the last step that requires a lot of work.

After you have the roots separated from the tree stump, take your digging bars (or arranging bars) and begin to work the stump out of the ground. These digging bars go about as levers to help you gradually pry and lift the stump out of it’s resting place. Since the tree has been staying there since its origin, this part won’t be simple. It is downright infuriating. But once you have gotten the stump out of the ground, you are home free.

Stage 6: Disposing of the Stump

It is the natural part. Sure, the tree stump is likely very heavy, but moving it is nothing compared to all the work you had to do to pry from its roots and detach it from the ground altogether. Call someone who can come pick the stump up for you. You can probably even make some killer firewood with a more massive tree stump.

You can get in touch with your city to see if tree stumps are picked up for disposal. Recycling centers will typically take tree stumps off your hands too.

Conclusion

Knowing how to remove tree stumps can add a lot of value to your home, and even better, it adds valuable land for you to use without obstacles.

Tree stumps take up a lot of real estate in your yard and dominate the area, which doesn’t let the grass grow around it. It’s usually infested with weeds and creates an overall dingy look on your lawn.

Imagine all the things you can do once you get rid of that stump. Put down a flower bed, or maybe a garden. You’ll be able to do countless things with this added space; you have to figure the best way to use it.

With such a large number of advancements in electric tools, it’s no big surprise people are thinking about an electric chainsaw. Boasting clean energy and little maintenance, an electric chainsaw is attractive to suburban homeowners and those not comfortable with gas/fuel engines. New electric models make short battery life a relic of days gone by. Also, the cutting power is exceptional. However, there are still a few tasks in which a gas chainsaw can’t be matched in power and cutting rate.

Knowing the advantages and disadvantages of an electric versus a gas chainsaw can help you better figure out which style is right for you.

Gas Chainsaws 

The saw of choice for heavy outdoor works, gas chainsaws, can be seen in use by experts such as landscapers, arborists, and loggers. While their gas/oil fuel blend can be a hassle to work with, their incredible cutting power and durable run time make them an attractive option for manual laborers.

Gas Chainsaws Regular Uses

Gas-controlled saws are used in both home and business settings, just as anyplace in the between. Ranchers and farmers depend on them because they combine power and versatility.

Powerful enough to chop down large trees or break up fences, they’re the saw of choice for people who need to get medium- to large-sized works finished quickly and efficiently. Whether you need to cut down an old tree on your property or do an entire day’s landscaping work, this chainsaw will get the job done.

Electric Chainsaws 

Cleaner and more energy-saver than gas-fueled saws, electric chainsaws frequently highlight a lower greatest cutting power also. While they may not be as strong and dependable for substantial cutting or long workdays, they’re a brilliantly advantageous choice for essential yard work and errands.

An electric chainsaw’s cutting capacity can be unique, relying upon whether it’s corded or battery-fueled. Those saws that are controlled by batteries have the benefit of being incredibly convenient; however, corded saws regularly boast more noteworthy cutting power essentially.

Electric Chainsaws Regular Uses

The light and compact design of electric chainsaws make them perfect for small to medium-sized occupations around your home and terrace. In the event, if you are expecting to keep your trees fit as a fiddle, they’re a brilliant tool for the activity.

Turn to an electric chainsaw when you need to trim dead branches, cut small logs for backyard fire pits, and otherwise keep your yard looking great. They are light enough to carry around for extended periods without giving in to fatigue of your arms, hands, or back.

Additionally, they are quieter and don’t put off any of the harmful exhaust of gas chainsaws. It makes them more charming to use in a calm neighborhood, simpler on your lungs, and better for nature.

Whether battery-powered or corded, users can expect minimal maintenance with an electric chainsaw. This ease makes it ideal for anyone who doesn’t have plans to be using their chainsaw more than once a week.

Conclusion 

Much thanks to you for reading our manual for the differences between electric and gas chainsaws. We trust that it’s cleared up any doubt you have over which type of chainsaw is right for you – with electric chainsaws being better for small tasks around the home and gas chainsaws being the preferred option for larger tasks.

You can generally take your chainsaw to a hardware shop and have it shortened there; however, if you don’t want to wait or would prefer not to, this primary step by step guide will assist you with shortening your chainsaw chain all alone.

• Necessary Tools
• A rivet device
• A chain-breaking tool
• Pliers
• Wrench

Before Beginning 

• Always wear safety gloves and safety goggles when working on or with a chainsaw.
• Be sure that your chainsaw blade and engine are not hot from use. It would help if you allowed it to cool down on the off chance you have quite recently used your chainsaw before doing any work on it.
• Remove the spark plug to ensure there is no power running to the chainsaw.

Removing the Chain

• Locate the side cover, and use a wrench to remove the nuts or screws holding it set up. For the most part, the side cover is held set up with two nuts or bolts.
• Unlock your chainsaw’s brake if it is attached to the side cover, or probably you won’t have the option to put it back.
• Pull the chainsaw blade or bar away from the chainsaw marginally (you will hear it click); this will release the chain’s tension.
• Once the tension has been released, you can lift the chain up and off the saw.

Removing a Link to Shorten the Chain

1. Inspect your chain and locate the master link. If there is no master link present, proceed to step:
a) Open the master link; this may take some force and pop the link attached to it out by applying force with the pliers.
b) Attach the master link to the link next to the one you just removed and close it.
c.) Proceed to step 5.
2. Choose which link you need to remove, and adjust the chain breaking tool with that link, and line up the push arm with the pin on one side of the link.
3. Turn the handle on the tool until the pin jumps out of the link.
4. Repeat steps 1-2 on the opposite side, and remove the chain’s link by giving it a slight force.
5. Put back the link that you just reconnected, or the master link, into the rivet instrument.
6. Twist the left handle while applying counter pressure to the right handle until the rivet is smashed flat.
7. Twist the right handle somewhat to move to the next rivet, and repeat step 6.

Reassembling the Saw

Here are the means on the best way to put back the chain on your chainsaw:

• Loosen the tension screw to make reassembly somewhat simpler. The tension screw is situated on the blade, between the blade and the chainsaw itself.
• Thread the shortened chain around the sharp edge, making a point to connect with the drive links in the sprocket.
• Pull the chainsaw blade marginally away from the chainsaw to give it a bit of tension.
• Seat the blade on the chainsaw’ adjustment pin.
• Replace the side cover and fix the nuts or screws by hand.
• Tighten the tension screw.
• Finish fixing the nuts or bolts on the side cover with a wrench.

Testing Chain Length 

• Pull the chain up far from the blade, and afterward rapidly release.
• If the chain can be pulled away somewhat, without withdrawing the drive links, and later adjusts back accurately without sagging or dropping, it has appropriate pressure and is the correct length.
• If the chain sags or droops far from the sharp edge, you can repeat the entire procedure until you have removed enough links to make the chain the best possible length.

Hopefully, this article has helped you understand a lot about the subject.

By knowing the methods of tree cutting and tree pruning, you might have the option to deal with most of this work yourself. There are various excellent cutting tips and pruning methods that can help keep your trees fit as a fiddle through different types of chainsaws for pruning. With the correct information and size of a chainsaw blade, you can prune your trees as essential to keep up their appearance and health and to eliminate potentially dangerous dead branches and other common issues.

While there are many tree cutting methods out there, you need to be concerned about the basics of maintaining things in control on the off chance you need to this yourself. Otherwise, you can hire an expert and not think twice about it.

Reasons to Trim or Prune a Tree

Trees are commonly cut for one of three purposes-

• Aesthetics – Pruning a tree viably assists with keeping up its shape and appearance. But it would be best if you didn’t attempt to impose an unnatural shape or size on a tree. The measure of cutting and pruning that will be required could genuinely harm it.
• Safety – Dead branches or tree stumps and appendages can tumble off whenever a severe safety hazard. If the parts of a tree obstruct your vision while driving, they should be cut away. Finally, limbs and branches of the tree occasionally grow too close to utility lines. You can contact the utility company to handle such issues.
• Health – It is sometimes possible to save an infected tree by logically pruning away the tree’s affected branches and limbs. Thinning the crown improves the airflow, which can be very beneficial. If branches are intersections or scouring together, they should be cut or expelled with the goal that they don’t fall out of the blue.

General Tree Trimming Tips 

• It’s best to trim or prune a tree during its dormant season. Even though you can prune a pine tree whenever it is still better to do so when it is dormant. The main exemption is the step at which risk exists.
• Be sure about the size of the branch that you are going to remove. On the off chance that it is below five centimeters in measurement, removing it is okay. If it is somewhere in the range of five and 10 centimeters in size, you might not have any desire to do it. On the off chance that it is more than 10 centimeters in size, you should possibly do as such on the off chance that you have a great reason.
• Only trim branches that have weak, V-molded, slender points. Hold branches that have solid, U-formed edges.
• Sidelong branches should be between one-half and seventy-five percent the stem’s width at the purpose of joint. Else, they should be cut.
• When pruning is finished, the proportion of living crown to tree stature should be 66%.
• Try to prune away the tree branches when they are young. They are a lot easy to oversee by then, and the risk of leaving nasty scars is much lower.
• Don’t trim a branch excessively close or excessively long. It would be best if you didn’t leave a considerable stub or remove the branch collar.
• You must be aware of how to use a chainsaw to cut trees.

Tree Pruning Tips 

The accompanying tips and strategies will help direct you in case you’re planing pruning a tree or if you want to educate yourself about regular tree trimming care and maintenance techniques.

1. Crown Thinning 

If you have to thin the crown of a tree, you should remember the accompanying tips and strategies:

• Keep sidelong branches as equitably divided as could be expected under the circumstances, particularly on young trees.
• Prune away branches that cross different branches of a tree or run against them.
• Never remove a branch more than one-fourth of a living crown without a moment’s delay. If you have to expel more than that, spread it out over several years.

2. Crown Raising 

• To give way to people on foot, and for different reasons, you can raise the crown via cautiously pruning the tree. Keep up live branches on in any event 66% of a tree’s tallness. On the off chance that you remove an excessive number of branches close to the base, a large portion of the tree will most likely be unable to build up a solid stem.
• If you have to expel the more significant part of the foliage from a branch, remove the entire branch.
• Only decrease the crown of a tree if it’s essential. Prune sidelong branches that are at any rate 33% of the distance across of the stem that should be expelled.

Tree Trimming Techniques 

Here are a couple of tree pruning methods to remember-

• Before cutting, search for the branch neckline, which grows from the stem tissue at the branch’s root. Search for the branch corner, which is on the upper surface and is parallel to the branch edge at the stem.
• Always cut outside the branch bark edge and angle your cut down and away from the stem. Take care not to harm the branch neckline.
• Use a similar procedure to prune dead branches of the tree and living branches of the tree.
• If a stem is very long, use the three-cut method: Make a notch on the corner of the stem that faces away from the tree branch that’s being retained; make the second cut inside the crotch of the tree branch and on top of the branch ridge; the third cut will clear the stubby slicing through the tree stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.

Keep these tricks and strategies from this tree pruning guide in mind before starting the work of pruning and cutting your trees.

Hopefully, this article has helped you understand a lot about the subject.